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Oval Cut History
Jewel crafters have cut diamonds into oval-type shapes for centuries, as variations of the classic round brilliant cut. However, the oval diamond as we know it today was not purposely developed until the late 1950s. Lazare Kaplan, a diamond cutter from Russia, quickly earned a reputation for being able to turn the most useless and flawed diamonds into beautiful works of art. He cut down the damaged gemstones, chipped away the blemished parts, and created smaller, workable diamonds. He seemed to truly believe in the saying “diamond in the rough,” and it was he who created the oval-cut diamond from some of the “deformed” diamond pieces with which he so expertly worked. Some famous people who favor oval cut diamond jewelry include Princess Kate, Katie Holmes, and Selma Hayek.
Features
The oval cut is a rounded shape typically comprised of 58 facets with a typical ratio between 1.33 and 1.66.
This shape optimises carat weight, meaning that the drawn out and symmetrical shape can make it appear larger than round stones of a similar weight. The oval cut is also an ideal way to elongate shorter fingers and it has recently become fashionable to use as the centre stone for engagement rings.
A "bow-tie effect" occurs when light passing through the diamond casts a shadow across the central facets of the stone. This shadow can be reduced by altering the depth of the pavilion, and adjusting the angles of the table and facets to better diffuse light in the central area. This effect also occurs in the Pear, Marquise and Heart shapes.
Proportions
While oval diamonds don’t have an official cut grade, the chart below offers general guidelines to follow when considering the cut of an oval diamond.
| Oval Cut | Excellent | Very Good | Good |
|---|---|---|---|
| Table % | 53% - 63% | 52% – 64%-65% | 51% – 64%-65% |
| Depth % | 58% – 62% | 56%-57.9% or 62.1%-66% | 53%-55.9% or 66.1%-71% |
| Girdle | Very Thin - Slightly Thick | Very Thin - Slightly Thick | Very Thin - Thick |
| Ratio (L/W) | 1.35-1.50 | 1.30-1.34 or 1.52-1.55 | 1.25-1.29 or 1.56-1.60 |